Do you move every twelve months, or sit in each house for three years?

I've read this chapter twice and the line that stuck with me is that the pace is capped at roughly one a year by the occupancy period. So the fast version isn't fast in any absolute sense, it's just the least slow the rules allow. That reframed it for me. If the ceiling is one a year anyway, the question is really whether you can qualify for the next mortgage while carrying the last one, and that's a lender answer, not a preference.

Three years, and I say that as someone whose whole approach is being willing to wait. Rent growth is what fixes a thin conversion, and rent growth needs calendar. A property you converted three years ago at a small loss is usually fine now. A property you converted last month at a small loss is a bill.

orchard, the calendar runs whether you're living in the house or not. Converting at month 13 gives that house two extra years of rent growth versus converting at month 37, and you own a second one during those years. The reason to slow down isn't rent growth, it's whether your file survives the next application and whether you have reserves.

What broke for me at four properties was neither. It was that four turnovers, four insurance renewals and four sets of small repairs stopped fitting in the margins of my week. marlow, you said you want income without a second job. Every twelve months for a decade is a second job for a decade, then it stops.

Moving costs are the number nobody puts in the model. My last one was about $2,800 all in with movers, deposits on the next place, utility setup and paint on the way out. Do that annually and it's real money against a conversion that's clearing $150 a month.

A couple of definitions, since the thread is using them loosely.

The occupancy requirement is a promise in your loan documents that you'll live in the property as your primary residence. It's commonly described as around twelve months, and the exact wording lives in your note and any occupancy rider, so read those and ask your lender to confirm the term in writing before you plan a move date around it.

The qualification question is separate. When you apply for the next owner-occupant mortgage, the lender counts the payment on the property you're leaving. Many lenders will offset some of it with the rent from a signed lease, often using a percentage of the rent rather than all of it, and some will want the lease plus proof the deposit cleared. Requirements vary by lender and by loan program, so ask the specific lender what they'll need from property one before you shop for property two.

On pace, the tradeoff the thread has already named is the real one. Faster gives each property more years of rent growth and puts more low down payment loans to work. Slower reduces moving costs, builds equity before conversion, and gives your debt-to-income room. Which matters more depends on your reserves and how close your ratios run, and both of those are things you can measure before you buy the first one rather than guess at.

Depends where you're buying too. In the small rural markets I look at, a $140k house with a $1,050 payment rents for $1,200 to $1,300, so it converts positive at month 13 without needing years of rent growth to bail it out. Fast is easy when the spread is there on day one. In an expensive metro where the same strategy converts at negative $300, waiting is the only thing that fixes it, and then it isn't really a choice.

hollow's point is the one I'd build on. The pace shouldn't be the input. Move when the current house converts at a number you're willing to hold and your lender says yes to the next one, and if that's month 13, fine, and if it's month 40, also fine. I voted for the cash flow option because it's the only one that answers the question with the property instead of with a calendar.